The Vanishing Touch of Heritage
Odisha has always been a land of art. From temple walls carved in stone to handwoven fabrics that carry centuries of symbolism, its crafts are among the most sophisticated in India. But today, as industrialization and mass-produced goods dominate markets, many of these art forms — especially the famed silver filigree of Cuttack and the Sambalpuri handloom — are struggling to survive.
Behind every intricate design lies not just artistic excellence but also identity, livelihood, and heritage. The state that once dazzled the world with its handmade marvels is now fighting to keep its artisans afloat.
This is the story of Odisha’s lost glory — and the fight to bring it back.
The Silver Soul of Cuttack: Tarakasi — Threads of Light
1. A Craft Older Than Time
Walk through the narrow lanes of Malia Sahi in Cuttack, and you’ll hear the rhythmic tinkling of hammers — the heartbeats of the city’s most prized art form: Tarakasi, or silver filigree.
Dating back over 500 years, this craft flourished under the patronage of Odia kings and later during Mughal rule. Using nothing but pure silver, artisans create lace-like patterns — gods, jewelry, ornaments, even entire tableaux — by twisting delicate silver wires thinner than a hair.
2. The Art Behind the Shine
The process is painstaking. Artisans melt silver, draw it into fine wires, and then weave, twist, and solder it into complex motifs: peacocks, conch shells, temple spires, and flowers. It’s art that requires both mathematical precision and spiritual patience.
A single necklace can take weeks, a crown months.
3. The Decline
Despite its unmatched beauty, the silver filigree industry is shrinking.
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Rising silver prices and reduced patronage have made it unviable.
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Cheap machine-made jewelry floods markets.
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Younger generations, facing poor returns, are leaving the craft.
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Machine-made imitations have flooded the market.
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Younger artisans are shifting to factory jobs due to low wages.
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Rising costs of raw silk and cotton have made genuine handlooms expensive.
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Rajasthan turned its block-printing and blue pottery into global brands through design intervention and aggressive tourism marketing.
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Gujarat’s Kutch became synonymous with embroidery through state-led artisan entrepreneurship.
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Odisha can replicate this model by building strong craft clusters, e-commerce training, and brand identity around its unique art forms.
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Digitize and Brand – Build a unified digital marketplace under “Odisha Artisans Collective” for verified products.
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Educate and Engage Youth – Introduce heritage craft education in schools and vocational training programs.
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Collaborate Across Sectors – Partner artisans with designers, tech startups, and influencers to modernize visibility.
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Craft Tourism Circuits – Develop dedicated craft routes (Cuttack–Puri–Sambalpur–Raghurajpur) for immersive experiences.
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Export & Global Outreach – Participate in international fairs, position Odisha as the “Handmade Capital of Eastern India.”
Today, only around 2,500 artisans continue this work in Cuttack — a fraction of what once was. Without consistent orders or global promotion, Tarakasi risks being reduced to a museum relic.
4. Efforts to Revive
The government’s GI Tag (Geographical Indication) recognition for Cuttack Filigree in 2007 was a milestone, followed by exhibitions under the Mission Shakti and Odisha Handicrafts Development Corporation (Utkalika) initiatives.
NGOs and designers are introducing contemporary jewelry designs and e-commerce platforms, giving Tarakasi a modern market makeover.
Still, the revival needs scale — and storytelling that connects young India to its handcrafted roots.
The Woven Wonder: Sambalpuri Handloom
1. The Icon of Identity
If Tarakasi is Odisha’s silver soul, Sambalpuri Ikat is its colorful heart.
Originating in western Odisha, particularly Sambalpur, Bargarh, and Sonepur, this handloom is known for its unique “Bandha” or tie-and-dye technique, where designs are created on threads before weaving.
The result? Patterns that seem painted onto fabric — elephants, shells, wheels, and conch motifs inspired by Jagannath culture and nature.
Sambalpuri sarees have long been cultural symbols — worn during festivals, weddings, and by dignitaries (even former PM Indira Gandhi famously donned one).
2. The Process
The art demands precision. Threads are tied in patterns, dyed in natural colors, and then woven — a process that can take weeks to months.
Each warp and weft carries both creativity and calculation, a dialogue between color and symmetry.
3. The Struggles
Despite its fame, the Sambalpuri handloom sector faces steep decline:
According to the Handloom Census, Odisha’s handloom workforce has dropped by over 40% in the past decade. Many looms lie silent.
4. Revival on the Loom
Yet, hope glimmers. The Boyanika brand (Odisha State Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society) and Mission Shakti have been instrumental in promoting weaver cooperatives.
Digital platforms like India Handloom Brand and exhibitions at Ekamera Haat have given Sambalpuri artisans new avenues.
Design collaborations — blending traditional motifs with modern silhouettes — are also drawing youth back into the craft.
Beyond Silver and Silk: Odisha’s Craft Universe
Odisha’s artistry doesn’t stop at filigree and fabric. Every district tells its own story through materials — stone, wood, metal, palm leaf, and clay.
1. Pattachitra — Painting the Divine
From Raghurajpur village, near Puri, comes Pattachitra, an ancient scroll-painting art form rooted in Jagannath culture. Artists paint on cloth with natural colors — narrating tales from the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and local folklore.
Each painting takes days of layered detailing, yet the prices often fail to match the labor.
2. Pipili Applique — Light and Color
The colorful canopies and lamps seen during Rath Yatra in Puri are made in Pipili, where artisans create vibrant applique work by stitching motifs on cloth.
Once made for temples, these works now decorate homes and festivals — though cheap machine versions are eroding authenticity.
3. Dhokra, Terracotta & Stone Carving
Tribal artisans in Mayurbhanj, Keonjhar, and Dhenkanal create Dhokra art — metal figurines made using the lost-wax casting technique.
Meanwhile, stone carvers of Khiching and Konark, and terracotta artists of Balasore and Bhadrak, continue ancient traditions of temple and folk art.
Despite being timeless, many craftspeople are struggling to find fair prices or modern buyers.
Why the Glory Faded
1. Industrial Imitation
Machine-made goods have made crafts redundant in the mass market. What once took a month by hand can now be produced in minutes by machines.
2. Poor Market Linkages
Artisans depend on middlemen who take large cuts. Direct-to-customer markets or e-commerce integration remain limited in rural Odisha.
3. Lack of Innovation
Most crafts have stayed stylistically static, unable to evolve with consumer trends or urban tastes. Modern product design, branding, and collaborations are rare.
4. Declining Patronage
With fewer state-level exhibitions and buyers moving toward modern decor and fashion, heritage crafts are losing visibility.
5. Youth Disengagement
Artisan families are discouraging younger generations from continuing the trade — “no respect, no return,” they say.
The Fight to Revive Odisha’s Heritage
1. Government & Institutional Push
Programs like Odisha Handicrafts Policy 2023, Mission Shakti, and Odisha Crafts Museum (Kala Bhoomi) have begun documenting and promoting heritage crafts.
Schemes for skill upgradation, digital marketing, and financial aid are helping artisans modernize.
2. Design Meets Tradition
Collaboration is key. Brands like Fabindia, Jaypore, and Tisser Artisans are partnering with local weavers and silversmiths to introduce modern collections that retain cultural roots.
Young designers from NIFT Bhubaneswar are also working with cooperatives to make Odisha crafts globally appealing.
3. Tourism as a Catalyst
Odisha’s heritage tourism is turning villages like Raghurajpur and Pipili into living museums. Tourists can now experience live workshops and buy directly from artisans.
Eco-retreats and craft trails are also introducing rural artistry to urban travelers.
4. Digital Platforms & Global Markets
With Instagram shops, e-commerce, and online exhibitions, artisans can now reach buyers beyond India.
Initiatives like Craftmark and Artisan Connect are helping promote authentic, certified handmade products globally.
A Cultural Economy Waiting to Shine
Reviving Odisha’s crafts isn’t just about nostalgia — it’s economically powerful.
Handicrafts and handlooms have a multiplier effect: they generate employment, preserve culture, and attract tourism.
According to the Odisha Economic Survey 2024, the handloom and handicrafts sector contributes significantly to rural livelihoods, employing over 1.5 lakh artisans. A strategic push — blending craft, commerce, and culture — could make Odisha India’s next big craft capital.
Lessons from Other States
The Way Forward: Crafting a Future
Conclusion: The Art That Never Dies
Odisha’s crafts are not relics of the past — they are living stories of resilience, community, and creativity.
From the silver shimmer of Cuttack to the vibrant warp of Sambalpur, these art forms continue to reflect the soul of a state that has always valued beauty with purpose.
Their survival now depends not on nostalgia but innovation — on how well Odisha can blend tradition with technology, heritage with modernity.
The artisans’ hands may have grown older, but their art remains timeless. All it needs is for us to look, value, and support — before the last loom falls silent and the final silver thread fades away.
